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Basic disassembly and reassembly:

Almost every single part is kissed by a CNC and has tight tolerances. That means a healthy 250 round break in. During break in the rifle might need to use gas #2 for awhile for a little extra umph to get parts worn into each other, and then once it’s broken in will run better on gas #1 depending on ammo. Use whatever gas position works for your rifle with your ammo, throughout its life.

Keep the end of the piston and inside entrance of the gas valve regularly cleaned for the break in. Don’t be afraid to use steel wool on the piston and inside the entrance to the gas valve.

Know how to adjust the gas settings. See FAQ entry below for more detailed info on gas settings. Steel generally likes gas 1, brass generally likes gas 2. Overgassing the gun can cause just as much problem cycling as undergassing. Use whatever gas setting works for your gun+ammo combination.

They like being run wet.

It’s not an AK, the muzzle threads are US standard 5/8x24RH. Righty tighty. Lefty loosey.

The locking hook on the charging handle has to be rotated all the way up into the detent, otherwise it’ll work loose and fly off after several rounds.

Click here to see pictures of the gas settings and valve.

Use whatever gas position works for your rifle with your ammo.

Gas 1 position is the arrow pointing down at the barrel at 6 o’clock. Gas 2 is down and to the left (facing the muzzle) at about 7 o’clock.

To change gas settings, push the detent pin down, and rotate the knob of the gas valve to the desired position.

If the valve is not locked into a detent, the gas hole is not lined up with the gas port in the barrel, which means you have turned off the gas and the rifle will not cycle.

Gas 1 is the smaller hole, gas 2 is the larger hole. Generally speaking, steel likes gas 1, and brass likes gas 2.

As seen in the gallery link above, there are also three custom holes you can experiment with to tune your rife, with your ammo, and especially if you have a suppressor. Very slightly enlarge one of the custom holes until it runs with your ammo + rifle + suppressor, without overgassing.

Remember, a dirty rifle which is not cycling correctly does not need more pressure to operate. It needs to be cleaned.

This more than likely means your gas valve is not locked into a detent, and therefore you’ve turned the gas off. Without any gas to run the action, it won’t cycle or eject properly. See FAQ entry above for proper use of the gas system.

We have most parts for the M10X on our webstore.

If you need anything not available, shoot us an email to [email protected].

First, read the FAQ entries above. A very large percentage of “broken” guns turn out to be user error, such as a part reinstalled incorrectly, the gas valve not set properly where the gas gets shut off, or the piston/BCG/charging handle not being put back together the right way.

If you’ve gone through the FAQ and made sure everything is set and installed properly, and the gun still doesn’t run right, fill out the warranty request form:

Make sure to include pictures of any broken parts, and video of the gun malfunctioning is extra helpful when we try to troubleshoot your issue after you contact us.

It’s an AK trigger group, and behaves exactly like every other AK trigger group on the planet. That means if the hammer is not locked back into the trigger, and the safety is on, it will prevent the bolt from traveling rearward.

Turn the selector to fire, run the bolt to lock the hammer into the trigger, and then turn the selector back to safe.

This is discussed at about 45 seconds in our basic function and field strip video:

99.999% of these issues are because whoever pins your mags after they’re imported, pinned them way too tight. A semi auto rifle needs a bit of give in the spring to accommodate pushing the top round down slightly as the bolt moves back and forth cycling.

Take a stroll through google for ways to legally fix that problem. The exceptions might be xtech mags, old milsurp steel mags with out of spec feed lips, and other cheap mags like KCI and pro mag. Pmags with proper pin depth are your best bet.

As of late 2021 all M10X rifles are shipped with a pmag.

Were you very slowly pulling the trigger when it double fired? It’s very easy to accidentally bump fire a second shot on an AK trigger doing that. With the trigger moving slowly right at the break point, the recoil shifts it back just enough to reset the trigger, and then with your finger held in that same spot a second shot goes off.

AK rifles are not very standard across all models, in comparison to many other rifles. For this reason, M+M, Inc. offers a money-back guarantee. If the part doesn’t fit, you get your money back. In some cases, minor alterations can make a part fit. You do these alterations at your own risk. If a part is damaged, or the finish is marred due to machining, filing, or other measures taken to make adjustments, we cannot accept that part as a return for a refund. Our recommendation is, work with your gunsmith before altering parts, or alter them with the understanding that if you are unsatisfied with the results, you still own that part. Otherwise, examine your rifle carefully before attempting installation, and be as sure as you can be that the part will fit the intended application. If the finish is the only issue, external parts are finished with a black nitriding process, and many parts are made of stainless steel, which will not accept bluing. Refinishing can be done with a nitride finish in most cases (the extruded aluminum cover is not nitrided. It is anodized. We recommend a process such as Duracoat to refinish that part.) As you consider your decision, please remember the disclaimer that is included with the MRL Kit installation instructions…

“This product is for use on AK 47 rifles and their variants. AK rifles have been manufactured since the 1950’s in various models, configurations and by various manufacturers worldwide. No guarantee is either expressed or implied that the MRL Kit will work with every single AK rifle. If not satisfied, return for a full refund within 30 days of purchase.”

We understand that shooting enthusiasts’ like to shoot inexpensively as much as the next person, but there is a segment of the 7.62×39 platform that has a deserved rep for liking to hammer away at, well, “area” targets. With 40 rounds of imported ammo available in the $16-$20 range, it’s understandable and fun. But as Frank Winn, Guns & Gear Editor for the NRA America’s 1st Freedom publication stated in his review of the M10x™ rifle, his “experience here was painful: The rifle shot faultlessly (and as you see, very accurately) with quality ammunition from Hornady, Winchester and others. But while malfunctions were small in number, each and every one occurred with the cheap ammo. Every attempt at precise shooting a la Col. Whelen was defeated (our best was ~2.35-inch, nearly four times worse than the Hornady SST Steel Case). The point is to stop expecting any firearm—vintage/authentic AK, hybrid upgrade or the fine M10X™—to perform well with poor ammunition.”
There are currently two stock configurations available from the factory. The rear trunnion is available with either a Phoenix Technology compatible stock receiver configuration, or a Magpul Zhukov™ (folding) stock receiver. Anything that will replace either of those stocks will fit your M10X rifle, but they are not cross-compatible with each other, so you have to know which stock you started with. Rear trunnions are available from the factory if you want to change yours. It’s a simple nut-and-bolt mounting system, which was adopted to make the M10X™ among the most versatile and upgradable rifles on the market today. If you prefer to use a different stock from the one your rifle came with, but have the wrong rear trunnion, simply order the other one from the factory, and you or your gunsmith can mount it in your lower receiver. M+M, Inc.® is not responsible for the results of stock changes other than the factory stocks available for your rifle. *I’m having trouble with inserting my charging handle! The charging handle is made to be removed and replaced easily. However, you MUST read the instructions before undertaking this procedure. Once you “get it,” you won’t have any trouble changing the charging handle from side to side, or removing and replacing it for cleaning and maintenance. First, note that the charging handle has a “dimple” in the outer end. Pressing that dimple with a cartridge tip or other tool RETRACTS a small hook in the internal end of the charging handle. That hook is what holds the handle in place when properly mounted. Remove the charging handle by pressing that dimple and pulling the handle straight out of the action. If you try to replace the charging handle without pressing on the dimple in the end, YOU CAN DAMAGE THE CHARGING HANDLE. For that reason, there’s a “STOP!” warning packaged with every rifle. M+M, Inc.®, is not responsible for charging handles broken through improper use, caused by failing to read the directions that come with every rifle. If you have damaged your charging handle, you will need to order a new one from the factory. To replace the charging handle, you MUST press the dimple in the end fully. Try it once without trying to insert the handle, and you will see the hook in the other end retract. Orient the hook towards the forward end of the action, and press the dimple to retract the hook before inserting. Once the hook is retracted, insert the charging handle into the bolt carrier (through the opening in the extruded outer cover) and you will feel it seat. There is a tendency for the charging handle to “stop” before it is fully seated. There should be less than 1/4 inch of clearance between the bolt carrier and the beginning of the plastic sleeve handle on the charging handle if the charging handle is fully seated. If it is NOT fully seated, you must press the dimple again, fully, before seating it further.
If you buy or are sent a new firing pin, you’ll also receive a retaining pin. The geometry of the firing pin and retaining pin have been changed, and you must use the new retaining pin that came with the new firing pin. The firing pin is designed to be changed in the field. For that reason, it requires no special tools or punches to remove the retaining pin from the bolt assembly. That pin is held in place by the firing pin spring. WHEN YOU PRESS ON THE FIRING PIN, THE RETAINING PIN WILL FALL OUT ON ITS OWN. This is how it is supposed to operate due to wide variances in 7.62X39 ammunition, and the potential for broken firing pins due to soft or improperly seated primers. Note that this is a risk with ANY firearm chambered for this cartridge. It doesn’t happen often, but it does happen enough that many shooters who use this cartridge carry a spare firing pin in their shooting bag. Be careful when handling the bolt assembly, in the field, or at home, when cleaning the rifle. Lost pins are not the responsibility of M+M, Inc.® Replacements can be ordered from the factory.
Accuracy is affected by many variables, and we have had many enthusiastic comments, about the accuracy of the M10X™, and others wondering why they aren’t getting the accuracy they hoped for. The most common factor we have found impacting this variability is the choice of ammunition by the shooter. Cheap ammunition is fun to shoot, and hurts the pocket book a little less, but it is the single greatest contributor to poor accuracy, other than perhaps poor technique by the shooter. Cheap ammunition might be a good choice for the way you are using your rifle, but you won’t get the best accuracy out of it. The very best accuracy results we have heard yet are from shooters using American-made, factory-fresh Hornady ammunition. The consistent factor in complaints on this topic tend to be ammunition imported from one or two of the former Eastern-block countries, though there’s some indication the rifle shoots one particular type of cheaper ammunition better than others. At this time, it appears that sub-MOA groups are possible with most or all M10X™ rifles shooting the best ammunition. To improve your accuracy, we suggest using the best ammunition and the best shooting techniques. If you aren’t sure of your technique, you can usually find someone at a rifle range who will coach you a little bit, and many ranges have instructors who are accomplished shooters who will give you a lesson or several. Keep in mind that there are MANY books available on the subject, and most techniques are useful across most rifle platforms. In other words, most of what you read about shooting for accuracy with a bolt-action rifle or other rifle will apply to a semi-automatic rifle as well, though perhaps not all. Finally, if you still aren’t getting the accuracy you want, but aren’t sure if it’s the ammo, the shooting technique, or the rifle, get the best ammunition and ask an accomplished shooter to try your rifle out, shooting for group. That might tell you a lot about where to look for improvements in your own accuracy. At this time, we have not had any rifles come back for service on accuracy issues where a problem was found with the rifle itself. Shooting is sport, and like all sports, if you want to be the best, you need the best equipment and a lot of practice. The M10X™ rifle is among the best in its class, so feed it well, and practice, practice, practice.
This is most often traced back to a dirty rifle, and problems of this sort tend to be focused on a couple of areas. First, dirty chamber walls can make it very hard for your rifle to extract the fired casing. This is especially true in humid areas or if the rifle has been used in wet or rainy environments. Understand that the 7.62X39 round has significant tapering in the case design to prevent this problem, and the times we have come across it, what we find is a VERY dirty chamber, but between atmospheric moisture and varnished steel cases, it is possible for enough material to build up to interfere with your rifle’s proper functioning. The varnish, usually a plastic is used as a coating to prevent the steel case from rusting but will liquefy or decompose when the chamber temperature exceeds its flashpoint then acts like a glue for dirty powder found in cheap ammunition. If this problem occurs, the first step is probably cleaning the chamber properly. Your local gun shop or gunsmith can guide you the best tools and materials for this job. Another place we sometimes see issues develop is on the bolt face. Dirt and powder residue tends to gather around the edge of the bottom of the bolt face, and this grime is repeatedly compressed every time the rifle chambers a new cartridge and it is fired. Enough grime can eventually interfere with ejection of the fired case. Again, if you have trouble with the rifle firing, check your bolt face (unlike the dirty chamber, a dirty bolt face can be directly observed simply by examining it.) Consult your gun shop or gunsmith for instructions if you find you have trouble properly cleaning the bolt face with the materials you have on hand. *The black, aluminum cover (extrusion) is getting all marked up, and my rifle doesn’t look as good as when it was new. Of course, used equipment usually doesn’t look as good as new, and the older it is, the more it has probably been nicked, dinged, scratched, or otherwise marred. However, your outside covering on the steel parts of the rifle are nitrided, which makes a very hard surface, and it should look good for many, many years. The aluminum extrusion, however, is not so hard. Aluminum is useful because it is light weight, but it does mar more easily than steel. One M10X owner observed that a burred scope base which had been installed had damaged the aluminum extrusion and recommended inspecting them in the future before installation and to avoid over tightening the mounting screws causing further damage. Your aluminum extrusion was anodized at the factory to give it an attractive flat-black finish. If you want to replace it from time to time, to keep your rifle looking new, you can order a replacement from the factory, and it’s a simple installation. For those who want to, we also recommend Cerakote. It allows for a choice of colors, is very durable (more durable than the original anodized finish) and is not very expensive, and it does not impact your rifle’s warranty to Cerakote the aluminum extrusion. *I want a longer/shorter barrel on my M10X rifle. Can I have my original barrel cut down? Can I purchase a longer barrel? Good news! M+M, Inc®. is offering several barrel lengths, and replacement barrels can be ordered from the factory. It’s also easy to change the barrel on your M10X™, though there is one operation that requires some expertise. You should NOT have your original barrel cut down, because barrel length changes impact the pressures that operate the rifle. A barrel of a different length may require a different gas valve with different sized ports. Factory barrels have been tested for pressure changes, and we can guide you on this when you order your new barrel. To replace the barrel on an M10X™ rifle, first remove the original barrel by simply unscrewing it (you may want to mark the barrel first, so that it can be replaced later, should the need arise. It will have to be screwed back into the exact position it was removed from.) Next, screw on the new barrel to the torque specifications provided with the barrel. All that’s left is to drill a new gas port in the new barrel. This is critical, because if the gas port is not indexed properly, it may be partially covered by the gas block, preventing your rifle from cycling reliably. The gas block is designed to serve as a guide, and a machine shop or gunsmith can use it to precisely place your new gas port. When the new port is drilled, assemble your rifle as usual, including any new gas regulator included with your barrel purchase. It’s that easy!
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